The past couple weeks have been crazy! I'll try to keep it short. 


While the Manchester group was at the station, we were able to meet a ton of cool new people! We also had a lot more opportunities like visiting a lagoon where we saw Hawatsons, traveling up to the caves (so much fun!), and spending time in the Center for a community day. 


Community Day was quite interesting! There has been a push to preserve the more traditional practices of Payamino and this was the perfect day for them to share a little bit of it with us. We got to see traditional dances performed by members of the community both old and young. There was even a chicha dance where everyone got to try a bit of my new favorite drink. We had a "traditional" lunch of plantain, fish, rice, heart of palm, and wayusa. We played a few games of futbol afterward which was an absolute blast! I think the gringos lost both times. Then they had arranged a blow gun contest for all of us. I did quite awful (there's a picture up on the photos page). 


We were loving Payamino so much that we wanted to extend our flight and not work in Quito at all. We were having trouble sending the plants we had collected from Coca to Quito anyway so our professor agreed we need to stay in Payamino until our plants were in fact shipped. 


We were able to leave with the Manchester group. It was a very sad goodbye. Both Jane and I were bawling our eyes out at the thought that we were actually leaving. In Coca, we were running around like crazy trying to print and copy all the things we needed to take into the Ministry bright and early the next morning. 

I wish I could explain how frustrating it is to go back and forth between the Ministry and the Hotel Rio Napo, but you will never truly know until you experience it yourself. In one day we made the trip about 5 times, each time needing some person to send one more thing or sign one more document. When we were finally able to leave our plants there for inspection, I ran out of the building screaming with joy. 


I would just like to note that dealing with these permits in Ecuador is significantly easier than in other countries. These were only slight inconveniences due to miscommunications in comparison. It could have been so much worse.  


Our changed flight wasn't until that Thursday so we were hoping that if we could get everything with the Ministry figured out on Monday, we could catch a ride back to the station in Payamino. Unfortunately, we were still missing one document in a PDF format by the time they left. 


When we showed up at the Ministry bright and early Tuesday morning, we actually showed the lady how to convert the document to PDF format and we waited at the Ministry for our one last signature. I was bound and determined not to leave there until we had our plants with us and a mobilization permit. Unfortunately, we were told it was best to leave and come back in two hours. 


Finally when we returned, our plants and our permit were ready. I think the Ministry ladies were glad to see us get out of there for good. After we shipped these out, we packed up our back packs, left our huge suitcases at the hotel, and jumped a bus to Payamino. We didn't think in the slightest that we would have a chance to actually go back and say our proper goodbyes, but alas, it happened. 


Actually, we were getting nervous that we weren't going to be able to catch the ranchera back to the community, but when we arrived in Loreto, it was still there waiting for us. It was like a dream driving back to Payamino. We were able to stay there for a couple more days, surprising all the people we'd said goodbye to, had our first jungle pizza (made specially by Rachel), and got to attend another Kichwa party arranged to support a certain political figure of the area. 


It was so wonderful to be back even just to say goodbye one last time. There really is nothing like saying goodbye twice. We left the station for good at 4am on Thursday. The 5:30am ranchera didn't show. We were getting very nervous because it hadn't shown up the week before either due to it being summer hours. We were just about to walk back to the station to get the number for a taxi when in desperation, I asked a little boy if he knew when the ranchera was supposed to come. Within 2 minutes of talking to him, the ranchera arrived and I yet again screamed with joy. We thought we were going to be stuck there (no problem to us, but we did have a flight to catch!)


After retrieving our luggage from Carlos and Mariela from the Rio Napo that they most graciously kept there for us, we were off in our plane to Quito. During our ascent, I was able to follow the river up and find Payamino from the air. I was instantly in tears. It was so hard seeing this place that I had called home the past 7 weeks fly away from me at such a fast pace. 


In Quito we were able to say our goodbyes to Xaali--it was weird hanging out with her not in the jungle! We also spent some time in La Mariscal market buying all our souvenirs. When we weren't working at the herbarium, we were able to spend time with our Ecuadorian friends that we met at Alma this past year through the exchange program. It was great to see them off campus!


In the herbarium, we were able to mount last year's collections from the spring term and then start work with our own specimen collections when they were all dry. It was long tedious work, but it was necessary. Unfortunately because of our delay in retrieving the mobilization permit, we did not have enough time in Quito to start identifying the plants. We still have some final work to do here back home, which is where both Jane and I are now. 


It feels so weird to be back in the U.S. I keep wanting to answer people in Spanish, it feels so foreign to use my phone, and I keep forgetting that our plumbing systems actually are made to support toilet paper. 


Overall, I cannot believe that this experience has come to an end. Although, I feel like with all that I have learned and with everyone that I have met, this will never leave me. I hope to one day return to Payamino whether to continue work on this project or one of my own. Perhaps I'll even be back in May on Dr. Doyle's Spring Term. Who knows? 


I cannot thank Alma College enough for funding us on this beautiful excursion. It was so worth it. I want to thank my professors too for believing that I was the right person for this project and always keeping me in mind when opportunities arise. Finally, I want to thank both the community of San Jose de Payamino and the research station Timburi Cocha. Without these two networks, my time in Ecuador would never have been the same. 


I will miss it all. I move back to Alma in two weeks for band. Hope to see you all there!


Samashun. 
 
Yesterday we were fortunate enough to work with Murieldo collecting more medicinal plants. When we arrived at 9 to work, he decided we could only collect plants for two hours and he wanted to start at 10. I got sort of frustrated by this as we had hired him as our guide for the entire day and that was already cut short as we were told to tell the canoe to arrive at 1. (To be clear, none of the guides are being paid for their information. They receive money simply to be our guides through the forest). So I asked him if we could start a little earlier and perhaps spend more time in the forest and if this was not possible then maybe he could show us how to prepare some plants?

After about a bowl or more of chicha (it’s really growing on me!), we set off into the forest. We only collected about 10 plants and the trip through the forest was basically just Murieldo cutting a new path through his land. I was a bit disappointed in this, but we ended with just enough time for one last bowl of chicha before the canoe arrived to pick us up.

When we got back to the station, we pressed the plants, showered, and did our laundry before the Manchester Group arrived.

The Manchester group equals about 30 people—a completely different atmosphere from just having about 3 or 4 of us at the station the past 10 days. It took them hours to unload everything they had brought. Dinner was phenomenal though! We had meat and potatoes and rice! I ate so much! I was even taking food from other people that didn’t want to finish theirs.

It was so odd, first I enjoyed the chicha and drank just about 2 bowls by myself and then I ate more food than normal, taking some from other people. Then this morning I woke up at 6:20 all by myself even before my alarm was to go off. It’s like I am a totally different person from who I’ve been the past 5 weeks!

It was really bittersweet introducing ourselves last night. People would ask how much longer we’ll be here and the answer has now switched from weeks to days. We will be leaving before the group even. Our time here has flown by. And now that we’re getting down to the last moments, I’m really not ready to move back to Quito.

I am excited to get back to Alma in the fall, though. I’ve been receiving Kiltie Marching Band e-mails with information about our new sections and I just got our warm up and pre-game music today. Plus I’m starting to think of all the things I’ll be doing for Hispanic Coalition when I return—it’s going to be a really busy fall!

Back to the jungle--
We were hoping to go up to the caves today. It’s about a 2-3 hour canoe ride up river to these caves that have a waterfall, little pools to swim, and petroglyphs if I remember correctly? It’s quite expensive to go up there, but the Manchester Group graciously invited us along. Unfortunately, unless you want to push the canoe the entire way, you must wait to go until the river is high. Waking up this morning, the river was not quite high enough and then it started raining. So the water level is rising, but if were to still go today, we’d be soaking wet and cold. Maybe tomorrow??

I just made a list of all the things we have to do before we leave Payamino. We’ve got a busy last week here. Between collecting some final plants and then figuring out all the mobilization permit stuff to get them shipped to Quito, we’ve got a lot on our plate. Everything will work out though.

As always, feel free to comment! For real, we want to hear from you!

 
Not going to lie, I didn't plan on doing much today but work on data sheets at the station and help prepare before the Manchester group arrives tomorrow. But as we were gorging ourselves on Jane's wonderful arepa creations that she was making for breakfast (basically fried dough; we've been trying to master them and keep coming up with very different versions-all wonderful though!), multiple canoes with multiple people just kept arriving at the station. One of them was Ernesto with goodbye gifts for Gabe and the other was Claudio here to talk to us about our project. Things happen both quickly and slowly here in Payamino. It takes forever to get some things arranged, but for days like today, you have to be ready to pack up and leave whenever. 


Claudio asked us if we wanted to work with Murieldo (a shaman here in Payamino) today, like right then as we were eating breakfast. We jumped at the chance because we'd been having trouble arranging a day with him. We cleaned up, got ready, and were on our way upriver to his house. 


When we arrived, Murieldo wasn't there (a huge downside to just picking up and going to someone's house to work with them). BUT there was a parrot! We got to hold the parrot and we got a lot of pictures (to be posted later)!! We decided we would try the house next door to see if he was there and to no avail, he wasn't. 


BUT his wife was. Along with a baby monkey that they keep in a basket at their house--so cute! And Claudio convinced her to take us through the forest and show us the plants that she personally knows. This was really awesome for us because one of our goals here was to work with more women and see what they know. Today was not a failure after all! We collected about 12 plants, no too many, but we were still able to collect some new specimen. 


When we returned, Murieldo was there. We thought we were going to go out with him as well, but instead we plan to work with him tomorrow. Before we set off, his wife offered us chicha. 


For those that don't know, chicha is a fermented drink that is normally made with yucca here. Today, the chicha was made out of fermented banana, yucca, and a fruit that they called maduro (which means ripe, but I believe that they call the actual fruit that). It was much better/sweeter than the chicha we are normally offered. I do like chicha, just in very small amounts. You see, it's quite chunky and the women strain the chunks out with their hand before serving it to you. They drink chicha like we drink water since it isn't always healthy to drink the river water straight. And when you are offered chicha, you are expected to finish the entire bowl. Normally I just share mine with Jane. 


When we got back to the station, we put the plants we collected with Lucio the other day into the alcohol to preserve until we can mail them out. Then we pressed our new plants from today. 


After all this, I took about an hour to do a couple days worth of laundry--we do that by hand here and there is a wash basin or you can use the river, it's the same water. I guess when Jane was doing her laundry she saw two toucans! It has been my goal this entire time to see one and everyone else seems to see them but me! I've got my eyes peeled from now on now that I know where to look!


We hope tomorrow to collect more plant knowledge and are excited to be working with yet another guide before our time ends here in Payamino. 


As always: comment and share!


P.S. I'm eating a papaya that was growing in our front yard as I write this #junglelife

 
Today we successfully met with Lucio-the president of Payamino-and collected around 15 plants. When we went out with our guide the other day, we collected and documented around 30! I still consider today very successful as we were able to recollect some specimens that had gone bad from last years collections, fill in some information we were missing on those, and then collect new plants. 


Side note--a huge bug just flew into the side of my face while I was writing this. It kind of hurt. Sometimes they can be pretty vicious. 


Moving on. 
A little bit about the process of what we do here when we go out into the field. 
First, we meet with our guide (the guy who knows about the medicinal plants) whether in the center or at their finca. *Each family has both a finca and a home in the community--basically a farm with a plot of land with a house and then a house in the center as well*

Second, we go out with them to the forest or to their garden-wherever they know the plants are located- and we walk with them on the trails until they find a plant that they use for medicine. 

Thirdly, we record the name of the plant, basic descriptions, what it is used for, how it is prepared, dosage, etc. We make sure to take really well-elaborated and detailed notes, asking questions to fill in information as we need to. We have a pre-determined list of questions that we like to ask each guide on a data sheet that we fill in after our hikes. Questioning them and recording info about each specimen is very important to do while we are still standing by the plant as it could be difficult for our guides to answer our questions about these plants later on when we have taken the plants from their surroundings. 


Fourthly, we take very deliberate and planned-out pictures of each plant including the leaf arrangement, height, veins, and flowers so that later on when we are compiling all of our data, we have great references to fall back to. We also hope to use these photos in the future to gather what the rest of the community may know about these plants. 


Fifthly, we cut a specimen that will be good for identification later on. We try to collect the smaller specimen (our bag for carrying them is relatively small) with flowers if they are present, and leaves that are well intact. We make sure to label these plants when we put them in our bag with a corresponding number in our field notes. 


Sixthly, when the hike is over, we head back to the station and press the plants. We normally do this before even changing out of our field clothes so that the leaves have less of a chance of withering before we press them. 


That is as far as we got today. Tomorrow after the plants have pressed for 24 hours or so, we will preserve them in alcohol until we can take them to Coca to get shipped out. 


Now for the even more fun part of our day (for real, collecting plants is actually fun and it's something I've never done before, but something even BETTER happened!)


Lucio was indicating a plant to us (Onion of the Mountain) when all the sudden he makes three short calls (almost like whistles). When we looked at him in confusion, he says something along the lines of, "I'm calling the monkeys closer." So he continues on with this for a little while longer and we hear the monkeys repeat his call and gradually get closer. Jane and I whip our cameras out and start recording this. After a little bit more, Lucio had run down the path. Along the way, he had taken his shirt off. His words, "I need to get rid of my white t-shirt." We were thinking for camouflage purposes?? When he signaled the three of us to follow (his little son had come with us) he pointed up, and sure enough there were some monkeys in the trees. A lot of the times he pointed, I didn't see anything-my eyes must not be jungle-equipped yet. It was so cool though! Definitely the highlight of my day by far!


It was such a beautiful day here in the Amazon and we had the pleasure of working with a really friendly and genuine guide. On the way home, he asked us if we wanted to hear a story even. It was basically your typical "Tortoise and Hare" story except with a "Caracol y Tigre" (Snail and Tiger). It was very adorable. He also told us stories about defeating the anacondas that used to make bathing in the river dangerous as well as stories about when the Spanish came to this region and what his ancestors did during that time. 


Today was one of my favorite days in Ecuador by far and I hope they just keep getting better. 


When we have better access to internet, make sure to keep an eye out for pictures we'll be posting so we can share our experiences with you a little better!


Always feel free to comment!
Samashu!
Adiós!
See ya!
 
Yesterday as I exited the dining area, I almost stepped on a small green bird. I was quite confused as to why it was on the ground, but grabbed my camera and took pictures of it regardless. When I returned, I noticed the bird flying around inside the dining area like a maniac. I then watched as it flew right into a Neffalo spider web. The poor thing was stuck for a good 20 minutes. He did finally escape, however. He was just having a bad day. 

Today Jane and I woke up around 6:30 (normally we get up around 8 so not too early here at the station) so that we could meet with our guide Lucio for the day. Lucio is the president of the community but he also holds some knowledge about medicinal plants. 

As I walked into the bathroom, I walked right into a spider web. It took me off guard a little because there normally aren't webs here. On the main path, I almost got clothes-lined by another web that isn't normally existent. As I meandered to the kitchen to start breakfast, a Neffalo stared me down in the doorway. He had completely blocked off the entrance to the dining area/kitchen. Later on in the day, I walked right into his moved web and he fell to the ground. I actually felt kind of bad about it, but he got back up. 

The Neffalos are on a rampage today it seems. 

Normally when walking along paths, you encounter a lot of webs. It's something I'm still not quite used to, but my tolerance is growing for sure. 

In other news: Lucio thought he was meeting with us yesterday and instead had president business dealing with water that he had to go to Loreto for. (Loreto is a town about an hour out from Payamino where everyone does their shopping/catches buses or taxis to Coca). So instead we will meet with him tomorrow--hopefully. 

Until then, I will play another game of solitaire and work on our data sheets. 

As always: feel free to comment!
 
Tomorrow we will have been in the Amazon of Ecuador for 4 full weeks. Life here at the station is quite exciting. We are right on the river so we can bathe and shower there whenever we please. We just helped to plant a garden so that we can grow our own food and we are learning sustainable energy practices by operating solely on solar power. 


The forest life is very cool to see. The other day Jane and I came across a transparent pink and black butterfly and she found a frog that mimics a leaf. Apparently it is very rare around these parts. We wake up to the birds every morning and the cicadas put us to sleep every night. I'm not going to lie, the jungle bugs can be pretty annoying, but you get used to them after a while. 



So far we have worked with 3 known healers of the community and have collected plants that they consider to have medicinal properties. 


Yesterday we had the opportunity to meet with one healer who is new working on this project. It was quite interesting to hear how his information compared to the other healers. He even mentioned that he has some secrets that he didn't want to share with us. 


The fact that he said this to us touches on the point of cultural preservation. We are working to document the knowledge of medicinal plants so that it is not lost to the community forever. The fact that in our data collections we are losing these plants that are considered secret is a little disappointing because there is always that fear that these secrets may not get passed down to the younger generations. On the other hand, it is a bit reassuring that these secrets are not being shared with outsiders like us because this comments on the fact that the community finds this to be a strong part of their culture that they want to keep alive or keep from changing. The debate that comes from cultural preservation of native communities is always so difficult and complex because there are so many sides to the argument and overall questions of what is truly going to be beneficial for the community. 


In our last two weeks here we plan to meet with 3 or 4 more healers to gather some final collections before heading back to Quito to work in the herbarium mounting the plants that we have collected. I am quite excited to meet with more people so we can gather more data and then move on to the next steps of the project. 


In my time so far in the Amazon, I have met a ton of great people: new friends as well as great connections were I to come back. I am so grateful to have had this opportunity and to work on this project. The work is something I have never done before, but I am definitely having a great time learning and having fun while doing it. 


Feel free to leave questions or comments! I'd love to talk about my experience with you!

    Author

    Caity is a current undergrad student at Alma College pursuing a degree in Spanish and Anthropology. She is interested in culture preservation and this is her first time performing this type of research.

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